Giorgio Armania Maintains Its Original Attitude Towards Fashion Week
"Show to buy" is the trend of the whole fashion world and the digital revolution, but at the moment it shows a flash in the pan.
"Show to buy" is supposed to be a permanent reform. In particular, it is necessary to go deep into every detail step of the fashion show mechanism reform. It is not enough to change the way of communicating with consumers only.
Armarni said he himself was not worried that the show would be exposed to social media too early. He hoped to coordinate the display of fashion show and store sales in the future.
Armarni is trying to do this, but it takes time and requires a strategy that applies to all situations.
Compared with the pertinent words of Armarni, the fashion industry in Paris has expressed one-sided opposition to the new model of "show is to buy".
RalphToledano, President of the French Fashion Federation, said: "Paris is recognized as the capital of creative fashion. The existing fashion show in France is still effective."
The board decided not to change the existing cycle of the fashion series in France, which will not be sold in the second half of this year. The autumn clothing show is still scheduled for ~9 March 1st.
Having said that, the French high fashion Union has appointed Dior, CEOSidneyToledano, Chanel fashion department chief executive BrunoPavlovsky, SaintLaurentParis CEOFrancescaBellettini, Herm s production department and executive vice president of equity investment, GuillaumedeSeynes to set up a small working group to follow the fashion design association of the United States (hereinafter referred to as CFDA) to conduct a review on the reasonableness of New York fashion week's "show or buy" reform.
CFDA commissioned the results of the BostonConsultingGroup research conducted by Boston consulting company, which will be announced next month.
French high fashion Union
It is the most authoritative fashion industry organization in France. Its members include: Dior, Chanel, SaintLaurentParis, NinaRicci, Herm s, Chlo e, Agnesb., IsseyMiyake, IsabelMarant, Balenciaga, IsabelMarant, and so on, they agree to maintain the current fashion show mechanism.
Toledano said that the trade unions had lobbied extensively on these member brands to see if consumers were very unhappy with the fact that the clothes displayed in the fashion show could not be sold immediately, and concluded that customers had no objection to the existing mechanism at all.
Toledano cited a number of reasons for maintaining the status quo:
Even though the French economy is in a bad environment, the luxury industry, as a booming star industry, has created about 500 thousand jobs and sales revenue of 125 billion euros (of which exports account for 40%).
He pointed out that the 90 member brands of the union contributed 80% of the export goods, showing the strong demand for the French designer brand fashion and leather goods by the international market.
He defines fashion as "the brand of creative designer", "marketing oriented brand" and "lifestyle brand" are three different types of business.
Among them, the latter two types of brands are also emerging in some urban fashion shows to meet the needs of consumers.
This is also a marketing tool for some companies, using the open fashion show and some entertainment activities to make consumers feel more interesting.
But the brand that wants to enter the fashion show in Paris must be strictly screened by the trade union. The criteria include creativity, craft, innovation and international popularity.
In a fashion show featuring designer oriented brands, a group of opinion leaders and industry experts will gather to observe the fashion and appreciate the trend of fabric and detail.
He believes that the designer oriented brand is hard to turn to the "show buying mode".
Designers need time to make changes in design works, even after the fashion show.
"Show to buy" is bound to let buyers and editors still have a chance to see ahead, which can not stop the design works from the exhibition hall, factories and magazines.
Therefore, Toledano emphasizes that French fashion companies are willing to use technological means to enhance information communication, customer management, industrial chain, inventory management, etc., but will not become slaves to technological development.
In addition, Toledano believes that the fashion industry is a well-organized and precise supply chain. All links need sufficient time to ensure that every step can not be saved.
Designers and ordinary brands of clothing production processes are also different.
Indeed, "
Show is buy
"There is a certain risk in this marketing oriented mode, just like the famous saying by Steve Jobs, founder of Apple," what products we launch are not consumers' decisions. "
The company also adopted a marketing method similar to the fashion show, that is, product display before the commodity shelves, so as to stimulate consumers' desire.
In this way, the film festival in Cannes Film Festival is exactly the same.
Before the decision of the French high fashion Union, chairman and CEO Fran ois-Henri Pinaults of Kering, the second largest luxury group in France, also objected to the idea of "show up or buy". He thought it was a way to "destroy fashion dreams".
Toledano pointed out that the trade union plan will be organized in a more orderly way in the future.
Paris Fashion Week
A variety of preseason shows.
His consultant, Pascal Morand, has begun to study the theme, details and timing of the show in the coming weeks.
Toledano said that the trade unions encouraged new designer brands who didn't have the strength to host preseason shows to accept orders on a large scale before the fashion week began, so that they could have enough time to deliver goods in time.
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