The New Road Of The Three Oldest Fashion Houses In 2010S

Freshmen, a vocabularies representing vigor and vitality, are often used to refer to the new atmosphere in various fields. In the high fashion industry, it has been 2010-2019 years in the past ten years. During this period, we witnessed the collision and convergence of street fashion and high fashion, and witnessed the surging tide of digital marketing. In the era of reincarnation, the change of characters dominated the road of ten years of change, and to a certain extent, it also led the trend of the next ten years.

In January 2015, GUCCI Alessandro Michele, the chief accessories designer, was promoted to the brand creative director. It was officially opened in a somewhat ascending path. In October 2015, VETEMENTS designer Demna Gvasalia took the position of BALENCIAGA art director, and was responsible for the design of brand women's clothing. The spark and the trend of street fashion started. At that time, the Off-White Off-White founder Virgil Abloh was chosen as the chief designer of the brand menswear. This article begins with the experience of the above three characters and interprets the respective meanings of Freshmen's meaning.

　　 Alessandro Michele GUCCI founder of myth

In December 2014, the Kering group issued an official statement that the departure of GUCCI brand CEO Patrizio di Marco and creative director Frida Giannini signifies the end of an era. In 2014, sales of GUCCI continued to decline in every quarter. Italy's old fashion house was at its weakest and turbulent time in the new millennium. In the week after the news was sent, the new candidate of GUCCI was immediately decided, not the Riccardo Tisci and Maria Grazia Chiuri, which had been widely spread around the world. The Alessandro Michele, who was the designer of the brand's chief accessories designer, was in danger.

Michele has already had a thorough understanding of GUCCI before the appointment of the official announcement, and Michele has already had a thorough understanding of GUCCI in various directions, and has formed a set of aesthetic understanding in this process, which is different from the sexy and attractive image created in the era of Tom Ford. Unlike the Frida Giannini era's pursuit of 1970s, GUCCI has a unique charm from the Middle Ages in Europe, and his reshaping of the brand seems like a renaissance contemporary fashion variation. As he has been appointed as the creative director, he has said in an interview with "an interview": "I am not interested in the future. It still does not exist. I am really interested in the past and the present. Michele joined GUCCI in 2002 to witness the creative age of the two design directors of the fashion house. "

In February 25, 2015, 2015 autumn and winter fashion week in Milan, the real debut of Alessandro Michele was the debut of GUCCI in the real sense of GUCCI. He cut off all the elements related to her predecessors and opened the new prologue. The charm of 1970s and the formal maturity of the dress dissipated. A pastoral poetic beauty slowly began to spread. The hearts of GUCCI girls became more delicate. Sometimes they were like noble girls who came out of garden style villas. Sometimes they were like art students who loved classical culture. At this time, the industry may not have expected that the GUCCI of this chapter will evolve to the point where it will be astonishing later.

The distinct personal aesthetic trend is also reflected in all aspects of Michele's daily life. In his studio in Rome, Italy, a rare palace designed by Rafael Sanci in sixteenth Century was filled with Michele antique furniture. In his own words, he had to put beautiful objects in the space to match the brilliance of Renaissance masters. A square desk in nineteenth Century, placed on the top of the nineteenth Century is a real tortoise, mottled yellowing walls and antique furniture everywhere, forming a layer of time and space through the medieval filter, Michele in which he loved Yuan Yuan unreservedly implemented in the GUCCI.

It seems that Michele's new GUCCI is not stubbornly rushing toward the past but divorced from the contemporary age. Comparing it to a bridge connecting the past and the present, it appears too shallow. GUCCI's very rich Western medieval implication series is Michele's understanding of the new way of the contemporary era. The contemporary intention has become a constantly changing and progressive existence in its vision. It flows like rivers and flows like a river. It supports the theory. The new GUCCI image has formed a grand body like the Sutra Pavilion. The elements of different periods and different references are extracted and combined, and then appear in the creation of each quarter. If so

2017 GUCCI holiday series, Michele mixed with different time and space aesthetics has a transparent expression, invited the illustrator artist Ignasi Monreal to co create, the God of mercury, the three dogs, Searle Belus, the God of heaven and Atlas, and Dionysus, the Greek mythology of a lot of characters have been transformed into GUCCI Mousika, a series of digital illustration integration of classicism and contemporary impressions, this is a major point of Michele's fission.

On the other hand, GUCCI leaders are not only satisfied with the search for creative collisions from the ancient civilization. Their concern for youth culture also exists in all aspects of the brand. For example, the mercury in the 2017 holiday series is a 1960s custom made little sheep. 2017 early autumn advertising blockbusters salute the underground northern soul movement in England; 2019, in the early autumn advertisements, we used the 1970s Punk character Pamela Rooke makeup. In recent years, GUCCI has become more specific in the expression of youth culture, and has shifted to multiple spatial and temporal channels under the guidance of Michele aesthetic span.

And his innovation in GUCCI, apart from the aesthetic system, has distinctive characteristics of the times. The outbreak of social media led by Instagram has rewritten the direction of marketing strategy in the field of luxury goods. Michele's insight and focus also catch up with the pulse of the times and step into the digital level. Throughout the whole year of 2017, GUCCI's digital creativity project has been continuously cutting the attention of social media, enriching and consolidating the image of brand with art as a link. In March 2017, the Meme cooperation project, the theme of the new wrist watch series, encouraged TFWGUCCI creators and artists from around the world to create a series of watch series around Le March des Merveilles. Following that, at the end of March, the GUCCI and the "A Magazine Curated" magazine jointly launched the curator three City Art Exhibition in Beijing and Hongkong. In May, it released the first 360 degree panoramic film "dancing freedom", which was put on the platform of the "360" platform to push the digital marketing of luxury brands to a new high.

Of course, these examples are just a microcosm of GUCCI in the Michele era, and combined with his younger brand image, paving the way for the revival of GUCCI. In February 19, 2016, almost a year after Michele entered GUCCI's first show, Kering group released 2015 earnings data, including Gucci sales growth of 13% in the fourth quarter, the biggest increase in the past two years, and this increase in Gucci is only a preface to the opening of divine words. 2016, brand sales increased by 12.7% to 4 billion 378 million euros in the whole year, and for the first time in 2017, it entered the 5 billion euro club. It achieved a remarkable achievement in leading the luxury industry for 7 consecutive quarters. The brand belonging to the Kering group also swept away the declining trend in the past, and set a brand new image in the minds of consumers.

Alessandro Michele's success in reshaping GUCCI seems to confirm once again the operation mechanism of the fashion industry, which has experienced tremendous impact in the past ten years, and the internal and external factors such as the emergence of new consumer groups and the arrival of the Internet trend have been challenged and even overthrown. The experience of Michele in GUCCI has proved an inviolable foundation. Whether it is embracing the younger generation or complying with the tide of the times, creative driving is still the core of the industry brand. It is like building a skyscraper with a solid foundation, creativity is the foundation, and a prerequisite for all the so-called marketing promotion. The myth of GUCCI created by Alessandro Michele is based on a clear aesthetic system, with the recognition of brand image, and then evolves into a series of later digital marketing. Those who walk out of the myth scroll, disseminate the dawn of hope for the revival of contemporary GUCCI literature and art, and become a significant chapter in the theme of the ten year freshmen.

The initiator of the great changes in Demna Gvasalia industry

In October 7, 2015, BALENCIAGA, which belongs to Kering group and GUCCI, issued official appointment. VETEMENTS designer Demna Gvasalia has become the brand new art director, and is responsible for the brand design of men's and women's clothing. Since the birth of VETEMENTS in 2014, the style of Demna has influenced the dress standards all over the world, and the ability to create bursts of money frequently has been viewed by the industry. 2015 spring and summer Paris fashion week, the first series of VETEMENTS debut, long sleeves, uplifted shoulder lines, exaggerated tailored profile, the fashion show brand with sharp youth cultural presentation and street presentation, to the then dying, lifeless fashion industry (the mainstream fashion brands are mostly at the stage of creative stagnation) injected a strong heart.

And what kind of answer sheet Demna will take in the fashion house that has taken nearly 100 years to take over BALENCIAGA has become the focus of attention of the world. In March 2016, the first BALENCIAGA dress series he performed was unveiled in Paris fashion week and staged in an old studio in District fifteenth. Demna has paid tribute to the founder of the fashion house, Mr. Crist BAL Balenciaga, in his first show series. He has entered the brand long historical archives in the series of preparations for several months, and has sought to reinterpret it in the present way, the grey flannel suit, the grid dress, the coat, the opening several sets of Look are steady and some daily, and the details are reflected in the waist and shoulder lines. BALENCIAGA will cut and shape into the DNA of the brand. Demna follows the traditional keynote and integrates itself into its own cognition. Then the appearance of the exaggerated single product, unmistakably conveys the spirit of his design, a series of Oversize label clothing, is the exact embodiment of Demna's new meaning.

At the end of the series, the image of clothing has changed to tradition. This is a signal thrown by the designer at the first show. His arrival is not a complete subversion to BALENCIAGA. Seeking the conjunction between the core spirit of the fashion house and the self creative idea is the initial intention of Demna to shape BALENCIAGA.

And Michele's capture of youth culture is different. The perspective of Demna has a distinct East European style. It reflects that the output of youth culture will not be paved with visual expression. Instead, it can be represented by various elements, such as the 2018 autumn and winter series, the large graffiti snow mountain standing in the center of the stage, and the shirts printed with telephone number printed on the center of the stage. After that, it is a reminder of a series of "Hi and welcome to the new Balenciaga hotline. hotline., Michele," and then will continuously throw out 20 different problems, including gender, height and shoe size, as well as favorite seasons, holiday locations and tastes. With a jest and joke, Demna tries to find a way to balance between high fashion and daily life, and this way no doubt shortens the distance from the consumer group.

In addition, the outstanding ability of the Demna manufacturing explosion mentioned above is also evident in this period. In the past consistent recognition, the field of luxury brand building is mostly reflected in the direction of bags, and there will be fewer topic products on the shoe level. However, the first phenomenal brand produced by Demna in BALENCIAGA is precisely from the shoe shoe level.

2017 men's clothing series in autumn and winter, Demna reinterpreted the contemporary male dress pattern, neat and exquisite tailoring and Demna style contour, but people saw a pair of bloated thick shoe shoes at the foot of a solemn model, and in the future, Triple S, which triggered a wave of fanaticism, was stunning. The high fashion house launched a global chase and imitation through a pair of Sneaker shoes. This is unique before. In 2018, the sales volume of luxury shoes sold by StockS.com shoes sold on the website in 2018, Triple S took the top spot with its 52% super market share. In the same year, BALENCIAGA took the lead in the competition among the most popular brands.

Demna Gvasalia gives the brand new and significant foresight, and his success further confirms the necessity of communicating with consumer groups in the current environment. The logic behind those explosive products is all pointing to this. The industry's leaders are keen to smell this breath, and a more targeted change is brewing quietly.

　 Virgil Abloh rewrites Game Changers

Virgil Abloh, a name that can't be ignored in the discussion of high fashion in the past ten years, a name you may have already had some visual fatigue. In 2018, he was only one of the most controversial figures in the fashion industry in the past ten years. In March 2018, LVMH group hired Off-White LOUIS founder to take the lead in LOUIS VUITTON as the art director of brand menswear, and the stone waves aroused a thousand waves. The high fashion industry reached the peak on the street trend. The one is the shining pearl on the crown of the LVMH group. One is the grassroots representative who has no senior fashion history and street origin. The combination of the two causes the industry to be surprised.

In June 21, 2018, Paris's 2019 spring summer men's dress week, the royal palace garden show, Virgil completed her first career in LOUIS VUITTON, and his first answer revealed a complete change. The opening of a series of white matting is like a metaphor of Virgil. The new LOUIS VUITTON is like a blank sheet of paper, waiting for the new master's ink, peppermint green, fluorescent color, scarlet, tie dye, and essential Sneaker elements to walk on the rainbow stage of the garden T stage. A demonstration with Virgil as the leading factor and the millennial dialogue is carried out. After the show, he and Kanye West, this man who has a knowing grace, a teacher and a friend, hugs and weeps, and adds an unforgettable footnote to this new street generation.

Compared with all kinds of single products on the show, it is easier for people to remember the far-reaching significance of the series. Since then, changes in the field of luxury men's wear have been carried out. A bridge connecting the street with the advanced clothing has been set up. Virgil, with ambition and ambition, stride into the previously unreachable palace. The long path of the royal palace garden, like a straight and broad road, guides him to the star road of the future with boundless hope.

Objectively speaking, Virgil Abloh is by no means a top-level clothing designer. Compared with those masters who are at the top of tailoring and detail processing, his 3% design concepts which are quite attractive to others are dwarfed. However, Virgil is precisely rewriting the rules of the game in this field. His mode of work is quite different from traditional fashion designers. Mobile phones have become Virgil's brushes, and Instagram's incarnation of his coloring dyestuff, even on the eve of the series, his figure will still appear in all parts of the world, instead of being buried in the studio. The traditional industry people naturally can not recognize his identity, and even some sniff. But with the current results oriented, the LOUIS VUITTON men's clothing reform is undoubtedly in a positive direction.

Interestingly, Virgil talked about the trend of the street at some time ago in an exclusive interview with DAZED. As a street born designer, this view has naturally aroused great discussion. From the two quarter fashion week in 2019, the trend of street fashion has been declining in the show. The luxury sector is looking at the current consumption crowd in a more rational way. Virgil seems to have sniffed a bit of change after another ten years' arrival. Will the Vintage trend become mainstream? What direction will the high fashion trend go? Only time for us to answer.

2010 to 2019, ten years, is the most turbulent period since the birth of the modern fashion industry. The technological trend brought by the trend of the Internet has changed the industry caused by the change of consumer groups. A series of examples from the point and the surface have proved the milestone in the past ten years. The specific characters involved in it have become the key force to define every node.

The 2020 chapters that are now open will still have more possibilities to be unlocked. At the same time, the laws of industry may also bring back some style. Citing a description in Shakespeare's drama storm, "every past is a prelude", and the urgent expectation of the unknown drives us to keep looking forward, and a new journey is also on the way.